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not me again, having to clean up the mess made by one or two people in the work project who can’t stick to the amply laid-out whitespace rules and mess up workability of files across a workgroup with different preferences.

covid vaccinations (+) 

was at my doctor’s office today to get my flu shot. doctor reported they’re experiencing a run on vaccination appointments like they haven’t had in a good long while.

with vaccination-related news mostly being about anti-vaxxers pulling more shit, i feel that’s also a thing worth to point out. it at least made me feel a bit better today.

i had a nice sunny autumn afternoon out bouldering.

not good: i tried pulling on the project and hooboy, did my right hamstring *protest*. i guess that needs to heal up all the way before i can even think about further progress.

good: found 2 6A+ problems i hadn’t done yet and did those. fun was had.

it’s sadly a bit low quality video, but daaang, she is so strong.

laura rogora (20) climbed erebor in arco, italy the other day – it’s italy’s hardest sport climbing route, graded 9b/+ (9b, potentially 9b+). this is the hardest sport climb ever done by a woman. the only harder grades in existence right now are 9b+ and 9c, so the guys aren’t that far ahead.

it’s also the first repeat of erebor since stefano ghisolfi did the first ascent in january 2021. ghisolfi climbed the route with a jump between two holds, while the much shorter rogora found a small intermediate hold for that move. ghisolfi on that hold:

> she used a different beta for the jump, crimping some microscopical holds, I tried to touch them once and realized that the tickmark (a smudge of chalk) made to mark them was thicker than the holds themselves.

video here:

very niche, very silly pun (ukpol + climbing gear) 

johnson ditching the metric system was just the beginning…

(cc @Gina because you might be the only person on my TL in the relevant niche)

bodily aches, bouldering, butts 

it just occurred to me that the 6C proj is another traverse from right to left, 2 hands and right heel hook on an edge. except it’s much more strenuous than the last one.

i’m going to get unbalanced buttcheeks, won’t i?

why am i thinking about this?
dude, my right butt cheek is so sore.

weeeeell, despite feeling kinda weak, i did link a couple move sequences on a pretty physical 6C boulder. i guess i have a 6C project, now.

raphael boosted

european citizens' initiative for universal basic income, :boost_ok: 

for anyone that hasn't seen this:
there's an ECI for establishing universal basic income throughout the EU
if you're eligible to sign it (are an EU citizen) i urge you to do so

racism (…) in rock climbing, good writing 

a while ago, there was a big discussion in rock climbing about route names containing slurs or otherwise discriminating language. thing is, it’s kind of an unwritten law that whoever gets the first ascent on a route or a boulder problem gets to name it. naturally, that has lead to a sizeable number of rather unfortunate names. how to deal with that has been a predictably loud row. (roughly divided into camp ‘maybe let’s not discriminate if we can help it’ and camp ‘tradition! history!’ – with the added spice that claims to historic integrity would mandate contextual treatments of these names in publications like guidebooks. where space is usually at a premium anyway.) btw, many first ascensionists, when contacted, were totally in favour of a rename of their routes.

so, today there was an article about the whole affair in the magazine of the german alpine club, and the smart cookie who wrote it made their point pro renaming entirely built upon traditional climbing values. i love it, because it puts pressure on camp tradition from exactly the direction they posit to be pressurising from: integrity of tradition.

tl;dr: article author wrote that if anything is a core tenet of alpinism, it is that you face difficulty and grow from having faced it. and if you think that’s somehow only true on the wall, you’re a coward. i am giggling like mad knowing this will make some folks’ heads explode real bad. XD

me: oh wow, you can see individual blocks of rock on these lidar height maps of my current fave bouldering area! and i have pretty good guesses for some of them! i bet if i went and took compass bearings between some of them, that would allow me to pinpoint the ones i’m less sure about!

me: *huffs and puffs for 2.5 hours up and down a hillside*

the map: lol no.

it’s absolutely amazing to me how good lidar terrain mapping is. for bouldering, the quality of approach description makes the difference between walking straight in and finding that one block of rock in the middle of nowhere, and hiking up and down a steep hillside for an hour.

while topographical maps are invaluable for keeping one’s bearing (but blocks of rock are not mapped, and neither are all trails in the forest), and aerial photography maps are very useful (but of limited use here, where everything is forest), the terrain model regularly saves the day. unmapped trails? overgrown trails? blocks of rock covered entirely by the canopies? all there, clear as day. i love it. :)

4:30am, my brain just decided to float the notion that escape rooms are vim LARP.

today was a day of treats. i got a package in the mail i’d been waiting for – i splurged on a topo map of the region and a fancy compass. i’ve had this delightful ‘new toys’ sort of happy all day. :)

i may or may not have been spinning around in my desk chair, watching the compass needle not spin.

ec (sunglasses), selfie 

eyy look, it me, pack mule mode!

had a nice day out at the crag, and decided to bring the camera with me to record me on some boulders.

tired: aeroplane mode
wired: ekranoplan mode

family, health, - 

damnit, here i was whining yesterday for having to go on antibiotics because of a tick bite. and today, the first thing i hear is my father was out, collapsed, and is now in the hospital for what looks like a stroke. apparently not a big one, but… fuck, that’s so scary.

terf illiteracy 

@Jo omg, have you seen? in a staggering one-up on the other day’s ‘this author who vocally opposed everything we stand for, would’ve been one of us’, today they’re all about ‘the author is the character they write and therefore neil gaiman is one of us because there are transphobic characters in a game of you’


aaaaaaaaaaaaah, such a good session today! if had had one more go in the tank (and enough skin), i would’ve done my project. :D

soooo stoked.

sky rogue, endgame 

jeebus, these post-final boss unlockable planes and weapons are *so* broken it’s funny.

currently on an endless play, day 30. this mission was the first time i had to land and heal. i had to shoot down 90 zulus, which takes a little time which means the occasional missile hits me. (before, it used to be in the vicinity of 9 ministries or 12 drednaughts)

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